The Milan shows used the best of vintage 20 th century styles for inspiration. Fur trimmed just about everything. Fake fur, now fashionably called faux fur and real fur will be everywhere this autumn.
Look out too for similarities in shops to the shaved fur capes that hit the catwalks, fur gilets, fur stoles and fur trapper hats. Funnel necks on swing jackets will have a new freshness.
Milanese footwear was elevated with stack, wedge, clumpy and wooden heels.
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Toes were round or oval and the two tone shoe is sure to a be hit, because even though it is an oft repeated revival, it looked new and now.
Skirt lengths in Milan mostly showed a modest hemline covering the knee or at mid calf or longer. Skirts that covered the knees were also a trend at the New York shows.
Perhaps some of the various box pleated skirts some houses have been putting on the catwalks might best be avoided. Miuccia Prada continued her ‘s revival and she designed square necked dresses and pert grey flannel suits perfect for those who aspire to be ladylike.
Using contemporary touches such as the use of computer generated digitally distorted old master landscape or tapestry style prints her Miu Miu range harked back to the romantic New Look with sweeping skirts and evidence of cutting in tune with both the late greats, Ossie Clark and Jean Muir.
Her military inspiration from historical costuming with a modern twist that used both velvet and brocade to make swaggering splendid coats all captured the culture of a long ago European heritage.
Her coats featured jewel encrusted collars and belts, also made in tweed and checks. Interesting use was made of nylon in ski jackets covered in digital prints.
Prada also favoured alligator and snakeskin stilettos, so right now these would be a great summer sale fashion purchases that will remain fashionable for Other items to find in the sales are brooches.
Prada used them to great effect as trims particularly on cashmere knits and wherever else she fancied. Brooches will be everywhere this winter, but worn not only on a lapel, but also on bags, the pockets of jeans and even beanie hats.
Brooches will replace the fake silk organza flower corsage. On the catwalk there were also gorgeous circle skirts that vied with pencil straight skirts and exceptionally feminine tailored garments from costume suits to sexy coats.
The fitted and shaped waist styling really suits hour glass figures and can only be welcomed by women who are not stick thin and have voluptuous curves to show.
Prada is the best place to look for inspiration for this fifties styling, taking many of the ideas you find there with you to the high street where fast JIT just in time fashion companies like Zara and those mentioned above, interpret new and fresh ideas so fast, that designers complain their ideas are pirated and in other suppliers shops, before they are showcased in the original designer’s ready to wear outlet.
Laurent 70’s inspired styled suits. Dolce Gabbana Vintage is the new buzz phrase and enables designers to remake past winners their customers adore by calling them vintage, even if the style is only a few years old.
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Armani also favoured the woman of tremendous curves reminiscent of the clothes of Edwardian beauties. Waffle textured jackets, cut velvet gowns and rich velvets added a feeling of sumptuousness.
Rifat Ozbek was back after an absence of a few years. Ozbek used braids to detail the hemlines of skirts and the edges of jackets, infusing them with both colour and fashion savvy aplomb.
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His use of polychromatic tassels was a nice touch on scarves and cuffs and was Tibetan and Ottoman empire influenced. Shops that usually translate similar themes well, include Monsoon.
Look out for similar ideas in the shops where tipping on knits in particular will be popular. Tipping is an edge finish of about half to a centimetre of contrast colour.
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Popular schemes include black and cream, red and black, flesh pink and cream etc. Roberto Cavalli used crystal, silver and gold lustre to enhance wearable coloured printed paisley fabrics in dirty plums, sage, sharp green and navy.
Alexander McQueen went futuristic with a sci-fi like setting for models that looked like aliens. He used draped silk jersey to make dresses that draped from silver chokers.
Leather was used to encrust dresses of chiffon. Fur pony skins were shaved to become even flatter to make coats. Mc Queen has also forecast that feather shrugs in silver black or coral worn over glamorous dresses will be big next year.
Karl Lagerfeld took a very unisex approach to many of the clothes he designed for the House of Chanel. Borrowing from the boys for daywear he focused on headwear such as trilby hats, caps and drainpipe jeans in pinstripe materials.
Patriotic colours of red, navy and white as well as pastel tweeds were striking. The tweed cardigan suit is classic Chanel and Lagerfeld knows just how to add a contemporary twist.
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Just about every collection in the stores today has a tweedy jacket inspired by Lagerfeld and at a tenth or even thirtieth or less of the Chanel boutique price you can opt for this high fashion look and wear it with matching or contrast trousers or skirts, or for a more dress down look just add your favourite jeans and a string of pearls, maybe pastel coloured pearls.
Christian Lacroix is one of the right designers for now with his passion for colour, pattern and jewel encrusted garments.
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His use of ribbon woven through long cardigans is likely to be taken up by the high street fashion stores who are currently feeding off deconstructionist and textural techniques.
His use of lace in fine black lace shirt dresses with gold mancheron shoulder detailing was another wave to the return of the emphasised shoulder.
Coloured tights abounded and are a real s revival touch.
John Galliano brought geisha girl and rockabilly to his collection. He used vivid shocking pink dyed furs atop huge enveloping coats.
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The look was unexpected and jarred, but at the same time captured street culture and was innovative and original. The catwalk is where Galliano shows his fantasy vision.
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Valentino produced the most beautiful evening wear of columnar dresses of lace or chiffon layers and some in the primary colour red with huge fabric roses at the sides that were show stopping.
His fur bomber jackets were luscious, modern and street savvy. New York fashion shows styled clothes to be layered from bustier to top jacket.
Drainpipe jeans may set an autumn look already half there with turned up cropped drainpipes already a high fashion sale this summer.
Kaftan tops, high waistlines, ponchos, capes, fedora hats, wide man styled trousers and jeans and trousers pushed into boots were all New York styles likely to become fashion favoured trends this autumn.
Combinations of colours continue from those of the summer with flesh tone peach, purple, rich brown, greens and blues still high on the list.
Look out for high throat hugging necklines as opposed to cleavage exposure, high waistlines, ponchos, capes and fabrics of tweed, chiffon and paisley.
Mid calf or longer skirts even to ankle was the norm. Occasion dressing was evident. The return of the brooch for fastening cardigan knits and adorning a wide range of wardrobe items brings a return to decoration and dressing up with costume jewels.
The little green dress may soon eclipse the LBD as next season’s must have! Caroline Herrera sought inspiration from the ski slopes. Her Audrey Hepburn inspired boat neck black shift dress was a subtle look that women often search for, but cannot find in the shops.
Marc Jacobs sent out primly dressed secretarial styled models with fussy Miss Moneypenny style pussy bow blouses with neat high waisted elegant pencil skirts, with not a low rise waistline in sight.
The look was schoolmarm prissy, but sexy and was every grown up boy’s fantasy of a saucy school mistress or strict female dominant leader like Margaret Thatcher.
With his closely fitting skinny cardigans, tweed suits for day and glittering dresses for night where modest aspects reigned supreme, Jacobs’s racy style meant that the groomed and glamorous look was back for flirting rather than over obvious display of flesh.
He used strong colours like emerald green and deepest jade that seemed new in their revival. Michael Kors gave a show that the average person could copy as their own look.
Models sashayed the catwalk in their jeans, textural cable knit sweaters and big fur bags. Elements of the look have been seen before, but people like it and find it easy to follow as their own fashion.
The fur bags are likely to be a huge hit as fur will be so fashionable this coming season.
Whilst wearing fur can make you look bulky, even the fattest woman can get away with a fur bag and feel she has her finger on the pulse.
Roland Mouret also toyed with little black dresses that softly draped with bloused styling and jewelled necklines that were like armour breast plates.
Anna Sui made a romantic pretty collection that women who yearn for feminine styling adore in her fashion garments. The collection included brightly dyed fox fur boleros, neat cardigans, or ribbon decorated sweaters worn with flowered skirts teamed with dainty accessories such as her heart shaped bag.
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Rodriguez is a Cuban American and brings just a touch of Hispanic exotica to all his designs. Colourful piping tipped the edges of flesh toned dresses.
Proenza Schouler produced tailored garments that showed refinement and elegance in their graceful design.
Chic is a word that easily describes their work. Betsy Johnson highlighted some retro 80s styling with tomahawk hairstyles and over the knee thigh boots.
The house of Ralph Lauren showed a spare colour palette concentrating mainly on black, but uplifted some items with touches of camel or red. Lauren showed a regard for all things of the American south west using touches of Navajo imagery in earrings, cuffs and belts.
Matthew Williamson used Aztec style linear graphic prints to make up Kaftan dresses and chiffon baby doll empire gowns.
Tweed with glitter thread made wonderful multi coloured jackets. With about 40 fashion shows London Fashion Week attracted only a small number of about buyers and journalists compared to Paris which attracted 10, visitors.
But London can still set trends and it’s clear that cleavage is out of favour with London designers too as more severe modest clothes were introduced.
Waists are back in fashion and the belted coat will characterize this year’s styles from last years. Fur tippets are likely to be all the rage by November and December as not only are they a year old revived fashion item rarely seen, but they are also practical in chilly windy countries in winter.
The fur might be any type from fake to sheepskin, but they will be around and being small and less costly than a coat or jacket can help instantly update looks.
Accessories like chain mail scarves and gaiters add new touches to old looks.
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With chill ever on the mind British designers covered up legs in interesting opaque tights. Some tights will have a metallic sheen, with copper being fashionable colour for them.
Layering will also define looks as fur and sheepskin and faux jackets help keep the chill off skimpy slip dresses for evening. Slip dresses have now been around for about 10 years but women still seem to love them.
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Julian Macdonald was master of a sophisticated show that had mink bomber jackets, leather seamed skirts and snakeskin pants worn with fox fur shrugs.
Jasper Conran’s designs were strict and severe and showed women as the dominant sex through their dress.
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